[wmjbottriell]

Let me rant about my experience with the Red Devil 6900XT once more, it's therapy for me and a warning for you:

If you want to OC your card "to the max" you need to put your card under water and use MPT, and buying the reference model is the cheapest and easiest way to do it. If you want to keep it on air and overclock it slightly, buy Nitro+, TUF or Gaming X Trio. This is essentially your best plug n play solution. I would not recommend using MPT on air, because the temps can shoot really high on air, and you have to be prepared to put your fans to 80-100%. UV+OC is probably the way to go on air.

If you are in the markets for the XTXH cards avoid the Red Devil Ultimate, because it has mounting problems which lead to high temperatures, or you need to put it under water, like some people here have. The binning doesn't seem to be as good as other models either, but it is cheaper. Don't be fooled by the beefy looking cooler.

If you never want to overclock, which means you are leaving 10-20% performance on the table, depending on silicon lottery, you can buy the Red Devil. Be prepared to heavily undervolt it with software like MPT to keep it cool enough so it doesn't thermally throttle. That's the only way to use Red Devil on air without constantly thinking "how hot is it running now...".

Whatever you do if you buy the Red Devil, do not open it yourself if it runs hot. Send it back. It is incredibly difficult to get the remount working, and the default thermal pads can break even when you are careful and essentially cannot be replaced by aftermarket pads because they are always too hard for the delicate mounting. The heatsink/cooler mounting pressure is messed up, so my theory is that the longer you use Red Devil the higher the temps will creep due to the mount loosening up. This is based on around 30 attempts to repaste, and using 4 different aftermarket thermal pads. Sometimes I would get it right and maybe a reduction of 10-15C compared to stock temps, but the temps crept back in three weeks due to losing the mounting pressure slowly. Under the same test the card junction temp was at 90C in TimeSpy 2-3 days after successful repasting, and three weeks later it reached 110C and thermal throttling using same drivers. I spent a lot of time inspecting the card, testing different ways of mounting it, and concluded that the thermal pads cannot be replaced, and that even if you repaste once successfully, there's a catastrophe waiting later. I did not use washers, they might help, but then again getting the mounting pressure right is incredibly difficult in the first place, especially if you want to keep your VRAM temps in check. My conclusion is to avoid the card all together or know that you need to put it under water. The latter option is expensive, and Red Devil's do not have the best bins out there either, and seem to be very sensitive to drivers in terms of core clocks (driver change can boost or reduce your core clock capability by 50mhz.)

Personally, didn't want to sell my war-torn Red Devil cheap, so I had to put it under water (ok I admit, I loved the idea of a new project), and now it finally works as it should when overclocked and using MPT. However it was a mess of a project, and caused a lot of stress and it sucked my time and money.

The best overall solution (no surprises here) for 6900xt seems to be highend AIO models or buying the cheapest card and putting it under cheap custom loop to keep the temps low and overclock high. Remember, 6900xt clocks do not boost based on GPU temps like Nvidia's cards, so there's no tangible benefit in gaming if your card is running 45C/70C vs 60C/85C (gpu/junction).

I won't compromise personally anymore when it comes to high end GPUs and will always use a waterblock, and buy a binned model. I'm willing to pay double the price to get rid of all the hassle that comes with cheap cards. It's a hobby, it doesn't need to make financial sense. I say, splurge on your GPU and never look back.

Holy ****.......I wish I would have stumbled upon this months ago. This is exactly what I've gone through over the past few months with my Red Devil Ultim. I've been losing my mind. Was just about to order my third set of expensive Thermal pads when I stumbled upon this. Even though I'm still in the same ****ty position of high junctions, wide deltas and not being able to afford to put it on water at least I can take solace in the fact that someone out there has gone through the same suffering as me. Which block did you go with? That custom EK one?
Cheers man,
-B

 

[tootall123]

Long time lurker here finally looking to jump into the 5950x / 6900 xt benchmark leaderboard fray here. Currently stuck deciding between the power color liquid devil ultimate and the gigabyte waterforce extreme. There is a huge discount delta at moment in favor of the waterforce. But one thing I've always enjoyed on my EVGA cards was the dual bios for vbios flashing, and it looks like only the devil has that. Any suggestions as to What to grab here for my custom loop build? This will be my first time jumping into the AMD side of the house since early 2000s.

I've owned both, both will provide fantastic performance.

However I'd pick the Aorus if given the choice as it comes with a 4 year warranty opposed to 1 with the PowerColor, The Aorus is longer but not as tall so you're less likely to encounter issues with height and your side panel if you're mounting horizontally.

In my opinion the Aorus card also looks better.

Its had by far the best bin of any 6900 XT I've owned and I've had a LOT

 

[majestynl]

Let me rant about my experience with the Red Devil 6900XT once more, it's therapy for me and a warning for you:

If you want to OC your card "to the max" you need to put your card under water and use MPT, and buying the reference model is the cheapest and easiest way to do it. If you want to keep it on air and overclock it slightly, buy Nitro+, TUF or Gaming X Trio. This is essentially your best plug n play solution. I would not recommend using MPT on air, because the temps can shoot really high on air, and you have to be prepared to put your fans to 80-100%. UV+OC is probably the way to go on air.

If you are in the markets for the XTXH cards avoid the Red Devil Ultimate, because it has mounting problems which lead to high temperatures, or you need to put it under water, like some people here have. The binning doesn't seem to be as good as other models either, but it is cheaper. Don't be fooled by the beefy looking cooler.

If you never want to overclock, which means you are leaving 10-20% performance on the table, depending on silicon lottery, you can buy the Red Devil. Be prepared to heavily undervolt it with software like MPT to keep it cool enough so it doesn't thermally throttle. That's the only way to use Red Devil on air without constantly thinking "how hot is it running now...".

Whatever you do if you buy the Red Devil, do not open it yourself if it runs hot. Send it back. It is incredibly difficult to get the remount working, and the default thermal pads can break even when you are careful and essentially cannot be replaced by aftermarket pads because they are always too hard for the delicate mounting. The heatsink/cooler mounting pressure is messed up, so my theory is that the longer you use Red Devil the higher the temps will creep due to the mount loosening up. This is based on around 30 attempts to repaste, and using 4 different aftermarket thermal pads. Sometimes I would get it right and maybe a reduction of 10-15C compared to stock temps, but the temps crept back in three weeks due to losing the mounting pressure slowly. Under the same test the card junction temp was at 90C in TimeSpy 2-3 days after successful repasting, and three weeks later it reached 110C and thermal throttling using same drivers. I spent a lot of time inspecting the card, testing different ways of mounting it, and concluded that the thermal pads cannot be replaced, and that even if you repaste once successfully, there's a catastrophe waiting later. I did not use washers, they might help, but then again getting the mounting pressure right is incredibly difficult in the first place, especially if you want to keep your VRAM temps in check. My conclusion is to avoid the card all together or know that you need to put it under water. The latter option is expensive, and Red Devil's do not have the best bins out there either, and seem to be very sensitive to drivers in terms of core clocks (driver change can boost or reduce your core clock capability by 50mhz.)

Personally, didn't want to sell my war-torn Red Devil cheap, so I had to put it under water (ok I admit, I loved the idea of a new project), and now it finally works as it should when overclocked and using MPT. However it was a mess of a project, and caused a lot of stress and it sucked my time and money.

The best overall solution (no surprises here) for 6900xt seems to be highend AIO models or buying the cheapest card and putting it under cheap custom loop to keep the temps low and overclock high. Remember, 6900xt clocks do not boost based on GPU temps like Nvidia's cards, so there's no tangible benefit in gaming if your card is running 45C/70C vs 60C/85C (gpu/junction).

I won't compromise personally anymore when it comes to high end GPUs and will always use a waterblock, and buy a binned model. I'm willing to pay double the price to get rid of all the hassle that comes with cheap cards. It's a hobby, it doesn't need to make financial sense. I say, splurge on your GPU and never look back.

I had the Reference Model / Red devil ultimate LC / Aorus extreme WF / Red devil ultimate air

I dissembled the block from the RD Ultimate LC because i wasn't happy with the temps. After talking with EK that made the block for them, they suggested me to use 1mm and 0.5mm. After installing those my temps where even worst then before. So contacted EK again and they investigated the issue and came back with a suggestion to use 0.5mm everywhere. After this i had the best temperatures ever with that card.

With my Air version of the RD Ultimate I had good stock temps but i still wanted to go for a block. I ordered a block from EK and directly went for the 0,5mm pads. Currently using this card with wonderful temps. But I agree the original pads where crap as hell.!!

Aorus extreme WF was the worst from all, sent it immediately back to Amazon. Bad bin and bad temps + broken Displayport.

I can't agree about the bin for the red devil. Mine where al good! And the dual bios switch is one of the reasons I went for RD.!

If i needed to choose a new one today, i would still go for the Red Devils!! You just need to use the right height pads on the rights places.! Is a massive difference when doing it right!

My 2c....

 

[amigafan2003]

Re. the 6900XT xtreme Waterforce, I actually think it might have a dual bios switch..

It does not.

 

[xR00Tx]

Don't know if you guys have done this test before, but last night I ran a few Time Spy runs with 4x8gb instead of 2x16gb (same timings for both setups) and found out that 2x16gb is better (at least for 3d mark).

 

[LtMatt]

Don't know if you guys have done this test before, but last night I ran a few Time Spy runs with 4x8gb instead of 2x16gb (same timings for both setups) and found out that 2x16gb is better (at least for 3d mark).

I think all things equal the dual rank should always be slightly faster. That can sometimes be offset by the single rank DIMMS sometimes having a bit more overclock headroom.

Using dual rank here, previously using single rank before that.

 

[derlarbz]

After a little while on air due do lacking of time I bought the Bykski block (I've been using their hardware for a while now) and received it today, massive temperature drop, from 88C in the junction in a single run of time spy to 55C.
Same thing as the previous Bykski blocks I've installed before, this one also did not have instructions, but it's pretty simple to assemble.
Two things that I noticed, with did not happen with the Radeon VII for example, I didn't need to use the "X bracket" for the 6900XT, instead, 6 screws with springs were used around the core. And few more around, and some other long ones to attach the back plate, however is possible to use the stock back plate but I just did not want to fiddle with it.
Another thing and for a moment I thought I had bought the wrong block, are these four components here that had thermal pads on them, but they don't make any contact at all with any part of the bykski block.

Has any one noticed the same? I got the MSI version of the reference card so I bought the Bykski block for the reference card.
Apart of this, everything seems fine. Gonna game a bit now to see how it will behave in terms of temperature.
Some extra pics,

Spoiler

 

[tootall123]

I scored 24 103 in Time Spy

AMD Ryzen 9 5950X, AMD Radeon RX 6900 XT x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}

www.3dmark.com

 

[LtMatt]

I scored 24 103 in Time Spy

AMD Ryzen 9 5950X, AMD Radeon RX 6900 XT x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}

www.3dmark.com

Aubergine.gif 🦴

 

[jonRock1992]

After a little while on air due do lacking of time I bought the Bykski block (I've been using their hardware for a while now) and received it today, massive temperature drop, from 88C in the junction in a single run of time spy to 55C.
Same thing as the previous Bykski blocks I've installed before, this one also did not have instructions, but it's pretty simple to assemble.
Two things that I noticed, with did not happen with the Radeon VII for example, I didn't need to use the "X bracket" for the 6900XT, instead, 6 screws with springs were used around the core. And few more around, and some other long ones to attach the back plate, however is possible to use the stock back plate but I just did not want to fiddle with it.
Another thing and for a moment I thought I had bought the wrong block, are these four components here that had thermal pads on them, but they don't make any contact at all with any part of the bykski block.

Has any one noticed the same? I got the MSI version of the reference card so I bought the Bykski block for the reference card.
Apart of this, everything seems fine. Gonna game a bit now to see how it will behave in terms of temperature.
Some extra pics,

Spoiler

I'm using a Bykski block as well. Mine also didn't come with thick pads for a few of the small components that has them with my air cooler. I'm using the Red Devil Ultimate gpu though. Not sure if it really matters if those parts are actively cooled or not.

 

[derlarbz]

@jonRock1992 Well, for those little parts the pads must be THICK as hell, so I am not sure if that would transfer any heat. But it is a good idea to try, I am sure is more than 3mm, I gotta check again, let's see if someone pops up with some info!

 

[tootall123]

I scored 24 249 in Time Spy

AMD Ryzen 9 5950X, AMD Radeon RX 6900 XT x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}

www.3dmark.com

Over the moon with that.

Unsure why the CPU clock is so high, its only set to 48.5 in the bios.

 

[lawson67]

@jonRock1992 Well, for those little parts the pads must be THICK as hell, so I am not sure if that would transfer any heat. But it is a good idea to try, I am sure is more than 3mm, I gotta check again, let's see if someone pops up with some info!

You get those pads for the small component's with the Alphacool block, you also get 3mm pads to make contact with back plate and they do transfer a lot of heat as the back plate is bloody hot to the touch when gaming etc

 

[jonRock1992]

You get those pads for the small component's with the Alphacool block, you also get 3mm pads to make contact with back plate and they do transfer a lot of heat as the back plate is bloody hot to the touch when gaming etc

View attachment 2521961 View attachment 2521962

Oh damn. Guess that's what I get for going cheap lol. Maybe that's why I have a hard time getting stable in Timespy lol. I run 2850MHz max core clock / 2150MHz fast timings in everything else. I'd kinda like to get a backplate pad. I have no idea what those other components are though. They aren't VRMs right?

 

[lawson67]

Oh damn. Guess that's what I get for going cheap lol. Maybe that's why I have a hard time getting stable in Timespy lol. I run 2850MHz max core clock / 2150MHz fast timings in everything else. Does it specify the thickness of the backplate pad? I'd kinda like to get one on there. I have no idea what those other components are though. They aren't VRMs right?

Yes back plate pads for the Alphacool are 3mm thick, and no those smaller component's are not the power phases as they are covered by pads numbered 2 and 5 in the first picture, i have no idea what those other chips are TBH

 

[weleh]

Ignore the CPU score but I've got a new record...

I scored 21 613 in Time Spy

AMD Ryzen 7 5800X, AMD Radeon RX 6900 XT x 1, 16384 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}

www.3dmark.com

25715 Graphic Score.

 

[derlarbz]

@lawson67 thanks for the pics! in the 1st image they are covered, nice. But here with the bykski bloco the 2 firts on the far up right are not even covered by the cold plate, the third one (last of the 1st three that are together) is covered by the cold plate, as well as the one in between numbers 2 and 3. What does the second picture represents? aparently is the back of the card, but at the same time the regions coloured in yellow are actually the regions I have thermal pads in, but in the "inside" of the card, ram, gpu, and mosfets.
I've got some spare thermal pads and I thoiught in using in the back plate but nothing really called my attention to put in. I've just did a two hours session of zombies 1440p all maxed out and the back plate was just warm. Gonna research a bit to see if I find anything useful about it.

 

[tootall123]

Ignore the CPU score but I've got a new record...

I scored 21 613 in Time Spy

AMD Ryzen 7 5800X, AMD Radeon RX 6900 XT x 1, 16384 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}

www.3dmark.com

25715 Graphic Score.

That's a monster GPU Score for those clocks!

 

[lawson67]

@lawson67 thanks for the pics! in the 1st image they are covered, nice. But here with the bykski bloco the 2 firts on the far up right are not even covered by the cold plate, the third one (last of the 1st three that are together) is covered by the cold plate, as well as the one in between numbers 2 and 3. What does the second picture represents? aparently is the back of the card, but at the same time the regions coloured in yellow are actually the regions I have thermal pads in, but in the "inside" of the card, ram, gpu, and mosfets.
I've got some spare thermal pads and I thoiught in using in the back plate but nothing really called my attention to put in. I've just did a two hours session of zombies 1440p all maxed out and the back plate was just warm. Gonna research a bit to see if I find anything useful about it.

The second picture is the placement of the 3mm pads for the back of the card to make contact with the back plate, they just replicate the positions of the pads on the front of the card apart of course from the big thermal pad stuck on the back of the GPU Die

 

[D-EJ915]

I had the Reference Model / Red devil ultimate LC / Aorus extreme WF / Red devil ultimate air

I dissembled the block from the RD Ultimate LC because i wasn't happy with the temps. After talking with EK that made the block for them, they suggested me to use 1mm and 0.5mm. After installing those my temps where even worst then before. So contacted EK again and they investigated the issue and came back with a suggestion to use 0.5mm everywhere. After this i had the best temperatures ever with that card.

With my Air version of the RD Ultimate I had good stock temps but i still wanted to go for a block. I ordered a block from EK and directly went for the 0,5mm pads. Currently using this card with wonderful temps. But I agree the original pads where crap as hell.!!

Aorus extreme WF was the worst from all, sent it immediately back to Amazon. Bad bin and bad temps + broken Displayport.

I can't agree about the bin for the red devil. Mine where al good! And the dual bios switch is one of the reasons I went for RD.!

If i needed to choose a new one today, i would still go for the Red Devils!! You just need to use the right height pads on the rights places.! Is a massive difference when doing it right!

My 2c....

Air cooled red devil ultimate is 1800 on amazon right now, kind of makes me want to try it out lol.