Hey all, my pump started making a very loud clicking noise today, and upon draining the fluid, a ton of flakey gray and black stuff was found in the fluid. It disintegrates to the touch. I attached a picture... What could it be? Loop was running fine for 6 months prior to this. No mixed metals, and using utopia as my biocide.
Tons of flakey debris in loop
happyluckbox
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"Thick" !!!!! what you doing pouring concentrated fluid in your loop ...... Some of the rubbish people come out with amazes me to this day. Mayhems X1 and XT1 has never separated and will never separate and are the best selling coolant on the market for liquid-cooled PCs. Its that simple we sell that much of it we even ended having to build a factory line to keep up with demand ....
Who said anything about concentrate? Currently I have your pastel in my rig... One thing I have noticed is you don't take criticism all that well and get extremely offended. Perhaps its a language thing, but you always come across as combative. You were like that on XS too.
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So I'm starting to think that my issue was because of the liquid utopia + distilled in my loop. It seems that all this black flakey stuff is just corrosion that may have eventually clogged and broke my pump.
Take a look at this reddit post where they seem to have the same exact tar like corrosion
https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.re....reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/cu9e9z/ek_block_failure_on_distilled_water/
Apparently liquid utopia uses copper sulphate, which doesn't play well with nickel....
Does aquacomputer double protect or mayhems x1 use copper sulphate?
Take a look at this reddit post where they seem to have the same exact tar like corrosion
https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.re....reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/cu9e9z/ek_block_failure_on_distilled_water/
Apparently liquid utopia uses copper sulphate, which doesn't play well with nickel....
Does aquacomputer double protect or mayhems x1 use copper sulphate?
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idk the specifics about aquacomputer, and no. X1/XT1 does not contain copper sulphate. Your radiators produce plenty along the way as is.
yes, leaving a loop unbalanced leads to nasty build up over time. It doesn't even take very long to start either.
yes, leaving a loop unbalanced leads to nasty build up over time. It doesn't even take very long to start either.
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504 Posts
I found this SDS pdf for aquacomputer double protect, i dont see a mention of copper sulphate. https://www.aquatuning.de/download/SDS_DP_Ultra_en_2016_04_06.pdf
Liquid Utopia does not contain any copper sulphate. It has been around for many years and has an excellent reputation in the Australian forums where it is has been very popular. I doubt it is the cause of any problems. Reddit and facts rarely go hand in hand.
From what little sense I could make of that thread the user was mixing different coolants and dyes when they warn on the labels of both not to.
First, If you have scratches on the metal parts of the pump impeller and the walls of the bowl it sits in then that means the bearing was ground down til it allowed the impeller and wall to contact. That takes an awful lot of wear in normal use. I have a D5 from 2012 that is still running in one of my systems. That much wear is normally only produced by running the pump dry. When the pump is running normally the impeller bearing is almost wear free because the very small graphite socket bearing rides on a very thin film of fluid between it and the ceramic ball it sits on.
The images below are of a new bearing and a blown out bearing.
That much graphite from the bearing and metal filings in the loop can make everything take on a grey colour because it mixes with anything else in there like traces of plasticiser. Corrosion isn't grey.
No modern coolant from a reputable brand will contain copper sulphate. Copper Sulphate or a silver coil are from the thankfully mostly behind us days of forum experts insisting they knew better than the people who made the blocks.
Replacing the pump is of course necessary but the blocks and radiators don't need it.
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its not the cause of the problem, as much as its not strong enough on its own to really be worth much of a damn. even when used in conjunction with their sysprep.
the pump is from excessive dry running, or chewing up something in the loop that caused damage (like nonsense left behind from manafacturing blocks n radiators)
so combine that with the lack of coolant protection, and boom you've got a multilayered clusterfark.
starting over with most parts, putting more time and effort into flushing/prep/filling, n using Mayhems/AquaComputer X1/XT1 clear = your blocks should come out looking nearly brand new after years of use. I can't endorse modmymods bathwater, cuz I haven't personally used it long enough to know where it falls on the spectrum. Spectral clone of X1 = should be fine.
the pump is from excessive dry running, or chewing up something in the loop that caused damage (like nonsense left behind from manafacturing blocks n radiators)
so combine that with the lack of coolant protection, and boom you've got a multilayered clusterfark.
starting over with most parts, putting more time and effort into flushing/prep/filling, n using Mayhems/AquaComputer X1/XT1 clear = your blocks should come out looking nearly brand new after years of use. I can't endorse modmymods bathwater, cuz I haven't personally used it long enough to know where it falls on the spectrum. Spectral clone of X1 = should be fine.
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Hi,
If you call and ask them as I did they may say it's based on x1 concentrate as they did to me
Premix is substantially less per liter nearly 5.us mods 9.us verses 14.us for x1 premix.
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Thanks for all the help thus far everybody.
Just wanted to say a few things.
I was very careful cleaning the rads first time with vinegar and distilled solution, probably shook each about 6 times. I've never run the pump dry, however, when filling the loop I may have shut off the pump "too late" meaning the pump was still spinning for a few seconds after the res had emptied.
Lastly, it turns out aquacomputer double protect uses ethylene glycol, which is a no go with primochill advanced LRT tubing. Apparently it will cause the tubing to break down. Looking at mayhems X1, they use ethelyne glycerol, which is apparently fine with LRT tubing.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find mayhems X1 anywhere, so I bought Corsair HydroX XL5 clear fluid instead, which is apparently a clone of Mayhems X1.
Wish me luck on the rebuild...
Just wanted to say a few things.
I was very careful cleaning the rads first time with vinegar and distilled solution, probably shook each about 6 times. I've never run the pump dry, however, when filling the loop I may have shut off the pump "too late" meaning the pump was still spinning for a few seconds after the res had emptied.
Lastly, it turns out aquacomputer double protect uses ethylene glycol, which is a no go with primochill advanced LRT tubing. Apparently it will cause the tubing to break down. Looking at mayhems X1, they use ethelyne glycerol, which is apparently fine with LRT tubing.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find mayhems X1 anywhere, so I bought Corsair HydroX XL5 clear fluid instead, which is apparently a clone of Mayhems X1.
Wish me luck on the rebuild...
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Hi,
Shaking and letting is drain doesn't insure all crap comes out
Make a temporary loop and add a filter to it to catch all the crap and still shake the rads that will get the stuff out and catch it all.
https://www.autozone.com/fuel-syste...s/performance-fuel-filter/spectre-2369-premium-clearview-fuel-filter/352786_0_0
Shaking and letting is drain doesn't insure all crap comes out
Make a temporary loop and add a filter to it to catch all the crap and still shake the rads that will get the stuff out and catch it all.
https://www.autozone.com/fuel-syste...s/performance-fuel-filter/spectre-2369-premium-clearview-fuel-filter/352786_0_0
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Hi,
Yes it does :thumb:
Another note after x1 clear turned green on hardware labs on one machine used mods clear coolant didn't.
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glad to see you're getting it sorted. fwiw in my unexpert opservation that you could have some whacky reaction between coolant, tubing and (copper) blocks. most of that is based on the accumulative "tar" on the block.
i'm sure that after cleaning the block(s), some new tubing and maybe some less exotic coolant would set everything straight.
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HI,
I have two ek D5 tops & two ek D5 res combos for the last three years and nothing like this has ever happened.
I have two ek D5 tops & two ek D5 res combos for the last three years and nothing like this has ever happened.
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30 Posts
Major ++ on this solution.
I had a bad reaction to pastel blue about 4 years back and took bloody ages to remove the brown gunk that stuff caused, even using a jet washer @ 90.c with some acids at work didn't help dislodge all that.... but running a filter for about 6 months did.
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Would this one work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090R6DG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_22UnFb7VQB3VB
Also, Can I run a fuel filter Inline permanently to catch all gunk? Haha
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090R6DG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_22UnFb7VQB3VB
Also, Can I run a fuel filter Inline permanently to catch all gunk? Haha
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Hi,
There are some that are g 1/4" but no the one I posted to has 3/8 barb so works well with 10mm 3/8" ID soft hosing but it is on the restrictive side so I wouldn't use it long term
Rig a way to easily remove it and reinstall
I use quick disconnect on everything now days but those to are a little restrictive.
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504 Posts
Okay cool, I got a filter coming now. Should I just run pure distilled water for each component + the makeshift filter and pump? If so how long do I run for? I don't want to let bacteria/algae have a chance to build up.
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